In the Heel of the Boot of Italy
Arrival in
Lecce, a city of modest size at the center of Italy's Salento Peninsula, occurred
at night after a long and uninteresting drive southeast from the Rome airport.
We came to this special city , touted by guidebooks as one of the most beautiful in Italy. Located on the stiletto heel of Italy's boot, it's a fine place from which to explore Puglia one the economically poorer regions of Italy. But not poorer in
historical or, as I've come to see, in scenic and cultural interests.
It is very
different here from mid and northern Italy, which we've lived in previously, and will again. Here we are at the heel's tip of Italy, set narrowly between the Ionian and the Adriatic Seas. This is a land marked by its flatness in all directions. It might be compared to the prairies back home, but it is so different in its vegetation, colours, and
scenic outlook that you know you are living elsewhere.
And living elsewhere is exactly the point of these travels:
changing perspectives, experiencing life a bit differently, eyes open to the
familiar because it has become unfamiliar. Even the sky here is different,
spreading itself closer to the ground and sea. This region is a haven
for sea-lovers. It's too cold now to swim at its beaches, and the winds can be strong ones, as the
rainstorms have been this winter season.
The land
outside the cities can be fairly bleak, though the nearness of both its seas makes for some lush watering holes and interesting old
ports. As you travel, the land is filled with acres of olive groves, many
close enough to the highways to see the characteristic silvery-green of the leaves and the gnarled, thick trunks of the ancient trees, pruned since
before Roman times. In fact, the culturally influential origins of this region
are Greek, with pre-historic settlers coming across the Ionian Sea, and the early
artifacts found across this area typical of ancient Greece. I'm looking forward to visiting some museum sites to see and learn more.
An Apartment Just Outside the Old Walled City
We're renting a large and comfortable apartment, conveniently located a walk away from the
historical walled city of Lecce, with its famously Baroque architecture and
beautifully gold-yellow stone that is characteristic of this location. Winter it is ...and it does feels like it, but still
there are cacti and some flowers
in bloom on the terrace. Ah, the eternal hope this gives!
Our apartment has a genteel, retro feel to it, a feeling of having been well lived-in .... as witnessed by this old radio console and accoutrements atop it.
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| original artwork by T.F., photo by J.Strayer |
There is also some charming art on its walls, some of it done by the
original owner, a physician who also painted.
Along with the paintings is this interesting ceramic piece from Calabria. Altogether a very pleasant place to reside, with pleasant memories still alive.
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| photo by Janet Strayer |
From the terrace of our apartment, you can see the campanile of the Duomo in the center of the old walled city. It's just a brief walk from here.
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| photo by Janet Strayer |
Looking Not Painting
I've tried to do a bit of sketching and painting here myself. I put plastic on a table and cardboard on the floor, to keep all clean and tidy. But I feel constrained in the space and limited to small studies and experiments. Maybe that's all I'll do while here. But it's all worth just being here and absorbing what I can. It's always been the case that travels and living in different parts of the world have influenced what and how I paint, though it's not always obvious (to me or to others) at the time. We'll see, I guess.
Piazza del Duomo in Lecce
The main
piazza of historic Lecce is a surprise to come upon as you walk through the old walled part of the city's diverging streets and
pathways. The 12th century Duomo was restored in mid 18th century by the architect G. Zimbalo, regarded as the master of what has become known as the Leccese Baroque style so typical of this area.The Duomo has an impressive facade facing the piazza and a very tall campanile beside it. It's the campanile I notice most, its structure so compact yet directed so high you can barely see the bell as you look up from the groundstones. But it is the combined impact of all that constitutes this piazza that impresses most -- especially as you surprisingly come upon it, tucked away, as it were, amidst the angling streets.
The Piazza del Duomo strangely has always been sunlit, even on cloudy days. It's a calm and pleasing rectangular space with interestingly
proportioned buildings and decorated stonework. The yellowish Leccese stonework and decorative architectural touches are typical of much the old city, giving it all a harmonious feeling.
Lecce is
not particularly known for its painters: none in Italy's south rival those
nurtured from the pre-Renaissance, with its prosperous patrons living further north. But a tradition of
rather fanciful Baroque architecture did develop, and the area is rich in historic
Roman, medieval and Renaissance structures and monuments.
Ancient Roman Amphitheatre
Notably, at the
beginning of the 20th century, a Roman amphitheatre of the Augustan age was
unearthed beneath Lecce's streets. It remains the main feature of Piazza Sant'Oronzo, a large central
piazza in the heart of the old city, surrounded by outdoor cafés and shops, in
some of which Lecce's skilled artisans still practice the ancient craft of
papier-maché, notable in this locale.
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Roman amphitheater in Lecce (Janet Strayer photo)
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For me, the main artistic interests in Lecce are architectural ones, in contrast to the splendid paintings and frescoes seen further north in Italy. But there ismuch to delight in, especially while walking upon
ancient pavements, some filled with amazing mosaics, or looking up at finely
decorated wooden ceilings and
Norman arches, or at cathedral columns festooned with an incredible number of angel-cupids and other
fabulously plentiful creations. Even in the less palatial houses in Lecce's
historic center, you can often look up to balconies supported by
caryatids and to cornices filled with faces created centuries ago.
As for the
people-watching, there aren't many tourists this time of year, and we try to
blend in as much as possible.. as you can see in this photo:
There's still very much to explore and
learn in Lecce. But we also want to see other remarkable places in Puglia.
Thankfully, we have some time to
do it. And hopefully, I'll find the time to keep you posted.
Happy trails to you as well!
More Creative Life News
You can read and see more about Italy plus other travels and creative adventures by this itinerant artist at Creative Life News
here.
