Otranto in Puglia and its Marvelous Mosaics

Otranto in Puglia:A Real Find!

I love this place!

Otranto is a another exceptional place well worth a visit on this narrow heel of southern  Italy. We went there primarily to see its noted medieval mosaics, one of the largest pieces of inventive design to survive intact to our day. These mosaics also contribute one of the most important pieces of artwork  

from the middle ages.

It's a wonder to be able to walk among these images today. They remain vibrant and so interestingly unique in their depiction of familiar themes.

 

A man on branch of Tree of Life, Otranto (Janet Strayer photo)

Built by the Normans in the 12th Century

 

exterior entrance, Otranto Cathedral (Janet Strayer photo)

The mosaics are the highlight of Otranto's ancient cathedral, built of monolithic granite and marble by the Normans at the beginning of the 11th century and incorporating Romanesque, Byzantine and early Christian styles. Despite the flourishes added later, the simplicity of its architecture and its stone rose-window may seem like a relief after all the very ornate and elaborate Baroque one sees in later and larger cathedrals. But just wait until you step inside! It is fantastic.

An Artist Who Did Not Want Anonymity

photo credit

One artist, a monk named Pantaleone (with his co-workers), was responsible for all this mosaic magic. He must have been sure enough of its legacy to leave his name in stone, along with all the other Latin inscriptions. Ah, the ego of an artiste!

nave mosaics, Otranto, photo credits

These wonderful 12th century mosaics are very different from the justly famous gorgeous floors and walls seen at Piazza Armerina in Sicily. First of all, here you are actually walking on the mosaics (for better or worse, in terms of their conservation). The mosaic floor is part of a still  active church, with pews set atop them. Wonderful for the parishioners, I'd think, but a bit disappointing for viewers from afar who have read about this marvellous floor and wish to see it uninterrupted and undamaged. For photos taken with the floor cleared of pews, click on this recommended link. Otherwise, here are my own photos, taken under the present conditions.

Elephants holding up the Tree of Life (sideways view, Janet Strayer photo)

In the center , as you enter the cathedral, you see the Tree of Life balanced on the backs of two elephants. The tree branches out into the aisles and apses and beyond. Other original depictions range from genesis to redemption, all created  with what seems to me a joyously inventive spirit and accomplished within a fine overall sense of decorative design.

Walking On an Illuminated Manuscript

The floor is so compelling, you might forget to look up at the elaborate carved and decorated ceiling, a contrast to the more simple architectural pillars and layout.

interior, and ceiling Otranto cathedral, Janet Strayer photos

But look to the floor! It's like walking through a huge, illuminated manuscript of the time. You even see some aspects of life (clothing, agriculture) in the Middle ages. Everything links to     everything else in this marvellous depiction of the ever-branching Tree of Life!

Not just Old Testament (Cain and Abel, Jonah and whale, Sampson and lion , etc.) and New Testament theological narratives are depicted, but also the zodiac, pagan references (satyrs, etc.), fanciful beasts and mythological figures and symbols, as well medieval romances.

depictions of the Zodiac, and other fantastic creatures (above) photos by Janet Strayer

The inclusiveness expressed within Otranto Cathedral  is said to mirror the interests of a once international city (of Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Jews and Muslims) in which "the culture of inclusion" thrived. Otranto was a hub of maritime trade connecting cultures of East and West. One hopes this focus on inclusiveness instead of insularity still lives on. 

More Creative Life News

You can read and see more about Italy plus other travels and creative adventures by this itinerant artist at Creative Life News here.

Regards, Janet @ https://www.janetstrayer.com